Back in Seoul After 20+ Years: Gwangjang Market, a Kim Family Reunion, and Ramyeon by the Han River

Hotteok, Korean street snack

Get: A hot, filled Korean pancake

Sugary and nutty on the inside, crispy and hot straight off the griddle. It's the kind of snack we'll wait in a growing line for, and it lived up to the hype. Namdaemun is one of Korea's oldest and largest traditional markets, so budget extra time to wander beyond just the hotteok stall.

Noodles and rice cake soup, run by one ajumma

Get: Handmade noodles and a rice cake soup

The stall Netflix's Street Food: Asia made famous, and the ajumma running it has essentially built her own kitchen out of boxes and a cutting board balanced on top, the kind of dedication that makes a stall legendary. The noodles were impressively chewy, and the rice cake soup reminded Lisa of the version Peter's mom makes at home.

Twisted donuts (kkwabaegi) and textiles

Get: A handmade twisted donut

Beyond Gohyang Kalguksu, the market is also known for a stall making twisted donuts by hand, hot, crispy-fluffy, and only lightly sweet, with a line long enough to prove it's worth the wait. Gwangjang Market is also full of textile and clothing stalls if you want to shop between bites.

Sightseeing, traditional hanok neighborhood

Get: A walk through the hanok-lined streets

One of Seoul's best-preserved traditional neighborhoods, rows of hanok (traditional Korean houses) on a hillside between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces. This is where we stopped for photos, and it's worth going early to beat both the crowds and the heat.

Sightseeing, Joseon Dynasty palace

Get: A walk through the palace grounds

The largest of Seoul's Five Grand Palaces and a short walk from Bukchon Hanok Village, so we paired the two on the same day.

Korean grill, open 24 hours

Get: Grilled strip loin, their signature dish

A Myeongdong spot that's open around the clock, useful if you're jet-lagged and hungry at odd hours. The grilled strip loin is the dish to order here.

Gimbap

Get: A classic gimbap roll

A no-frills, generously stuffed gimbap spot in the middle of Myeongdong, good for a quick bite between sightseeing stops.

Home-style Korean, soft tofu soup

Get: Sundubu-jjigae (soft tofu stew) and beef bulgogi

Tucked into a Myeongdong alley and easy to miss, this is home-style Korean cooking, well-known locally for its soft tofu soup. Cash only, so come prepared.

Modern-traditional Korean, private-room tasting menu

Get: A multi-course tasting menu (table d'hôte)

Peter's cousin, who we hadn't seen in five years, treated us to dinner at a restaurant typically used for business meetings, tucked away near the UK Embassy. The food managed to feel modern and traditional at the same time, and the private room gave us real space to catch up.

Traditional market

Get: Whatever looks good; this market is known for street food and produce

A hip, traditional market in Mapo-gu, less touristy than Gwangjang or Namdaemun, and worth a visit if you want a more local market experience.

Korean stew and hot pot

Get: Ask what's in season

A Sinsa-dong spot named for exactly what it serves: big, shareable pots of stew, a good option if you're in Gangnam and want something warm and communal.

Cafe

Get: Ask what's fresh that day

A quieter cafe stop we used to rest between sightseeing; the name roughly translates to "staying" or "lingering," which fit the moment.

Ramyeon, a bucket-list stop

Get: Fresh-pressed ramyeon with a 20-hour smoked egg and a sauna egg

A bucket list item for us: a spot with a machine that presses the ramyeon noodles fresh to order, chewy every time, the classic Han River picnic move. We tried both a 20-hour smoked egg and a "sauna egg" (steamed low and slow) on the side, along with a precisely measured 80 grams of kimchi.